Dublin has become a hot
spot on the world tourism scene. This stunning city has always been worthy of
this, but it seems that the world is finally recognizing the merits of Ireland's
capital. There is no doubt that Ireland's rapid emergence as a high-tech powerhouse
has contributed to the increasing popularity of this island nation, but Dublin's
appeal doesn't just lie in anything that contemporary. The joy of a visit here
is not so much about tangible sights and attractions (although there are plenty
of these), rather it is in the general feel of the city, its centuries old tradition
of true hospitality, and its efficient and well-run tourism infrastructure.
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Dublin
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In a word Dublin, and Ireland
as a whole, is all about charm - the unique style of Irish charm that inspires
all fortunate enough to experience it. A trip to Dublin will rejuvenate tired
spirits. Though visitors will likely spend hours pounding the pavements in pursuit
of all the wonderful experiences Dublin has to offer, a visit here leaves visitors
mentally stimulated and alive.
Apart from the non-discernible attractions,
there is also an endless list of historical, cultural and leisure-oriented places
and tours
to choose from. Perhaps the most notable though is Dublin's tremendous entertainment
and nightlife scene. Whether sitting in a cozy pub
sipping on a Guinness while chatting to real Dubliners, or watching a first
rate Celtic oriented stage performance, evenings in Dublin are certain to be
memorable.
The Temple
Bar area, south of the river, is the focal point for Dublin's bar and
pub scene. A wonderful time can be had for at least one evening on a pub-crawl
through this rejuvenated district. A pint or more of the Guinness never tastes
better than in Dublin itself, but even for those who don't enjoy Ireland's almost
sacrosanct national beverage (with Irish whiskey a close second) the warm and
friendly atmosphere of the Irish pub is still well worth experiencing.
HISTORY AND CULTURE
Dublin has its origins as a Celtic settlement on the shores of the River Liffey.
Its official Irish name Baile Atha Cliath means town of the Hurdle Ford,
and the ford can still be located today. However, it was the invading Vikings
that turned Dublin into a significant community and trading port centred around
a small black pool. The Vikings that founded Dublin (from dubh linn,
also Irish for black pool) remained and intermarried with the Irish. The pool
remained with the ongoing invasions of the Anglo-Normans and then the English,
since then it has virtually disappeared and runs underground close to St.
Patrick's Cathedral before returning to the Liffey in what amounts to
not much more than a trickle - somewhat undignified for the body of water for
which this great city was named.
Starting in the 1600s Dublin, though predominantly Catholic, was important
in the protestant reformation. Theologians such as Church of Ireland Archbishop
James Ussher left their mark - he was best known for dating the exact age of
the planet!
By the 1700s Dublin was the second largest city in the expanding British Empire.
Dublin was the beneficiary of the incredible Georgian style of architecture
of that period.
Fortunately more of this has been preserved in Dublin than anywhere else. There
was actually a law at the time that required that streets be made wider and
more accessible and this certainly contributed to Dublin's magnificent Georgian
legacy. This was also a time of literary achievement; Jonathan Swift - a Dublin
cleric was one of the greatest satirists of the time. His most famous work is
Gulliver's Travels.
Sadly politics soon interfered with the spirit of the city, and the 1801 Act
of Union, which basically took away any vestiges of independence from England.
Much turmoil and some regrettable atrocities occurred over the next century.
This culminated in the Easter Rising of 1916 - the remnants of the shrapnel
from this can be still be seen at the Post Office Building on O'Connell Street.
Peace came in 1922, but then Ireland suffered a particularly tragic civil war.
Many landmark buildings were damaged through the years of conflict, but nearly
all have been beautifully restored.
Through the next 50 years Dublin was somewhat bruised from all the tumultuous
events. But slowly a new proud and independent Ireland emerged, and Dublin was
the keystone of this renaissance. Membership in the European Common Market certainly
was a massive benefit to the economic development of the country and its capital.
Various grants and an efficient government policy, which seems to know where
to draw the line between interference and healthy stimulation, transformed what
had been a rural based and relatively poor and backward economy and infrastructure
(by the standards of Western Europe) into a high tech powerhouse. The Celtic
Tiger - which is what the world has dubbed Ireland's economy because of its
unprecedented and rapid growth - has transformed the city, and now Dublin is
enjoying prosperity perhaps even greater than that of the Georgian era.
Dublin's renaissance is more than just economic though. The world fascination
with anything Celtic, that began in the late 20th Century and still continues
unabated, has really focused attention on the city. At the same time there has
been a revival in traditional aspects of Irish culture and there has also been
a quiet social revolution, especially in Dublin. The great power of the church
has diminished and Dubliners, particularly the younger generations, are questioning
social issues that the church had previously taken a strong position on. What
was formally considered irrefutable is now widely debated on an ongoing basis.
This is reflected in the mindset and attitudes of the people, which has been
passed on and has certainly enhanced the ambience of this great city.
Dublin performing artists are also enjoying a remarkable bout of popularity.
Everything from dance revues such as Riverdance, to rock stars such as the legendary
U2 and a wide selection of bands from Tin Lizzy to Bob Geldof's Boom Town Rats
have their roots in Dublin and have left an indelible mark on modern world culture.
Irish pop artists such as The Coors and more traditional Celtic singers such
as Enya have also had a huge influence, as have many of the countless Dublin
folk groups.
In the interests of veracity, it must be said that the style of many of these
acts and artists (particularly the more contemporary ones) may not really be
in actuality authentically Irish. Much has been borrowed from other influences.
At the same time though, each has an unmistakable Irish characteristic, whether
we are talking about the agony and pain evident in Sinead O'Connor's voice or
the unique Irish lilt of the traditional Tommy Makhem and the Clancy Brothers.
Irish literature has also enjoyed amazing popularity in the last hundred years.
20th Century authors with significant roots in Dublin include William Butler
Yeats, Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, James Joyce and George Bernard Shaw. Similarly
Irish actors such as Peter O'Toole, Liam Neeson, Pierce Brosnan, Aidan Quinn
and Stuart Townsend have all made significant contributions to modern world
cinema.
CLIMATE
Concerning the Dublin climate there is good news and bad news. The bad news
is that Dublin is wet. The rest of the news is good. Although rain is a strong
possibility at any time of year, the weather is normally very mild. Snow and
freezing temperatures are rare. However it is important to bring waterproof
clothing at any time of year. In winter the wind and damp can make things uncomfortably
cool, so woolens under a thick waterproof coat or jacket are the best solution.
Dublin still has its share of warm and sunny days though and these are not
just a possibility in summer and spring. Mild sunny days in the middle of winter
are not a rarity. Above all, rain or shine, weather plays little role in the
enjoyment of a Dublin vacation. Most of the outstanding attractions are indoors,
public
transportation is good and most of the bus stops have shelters. Bring
an umbrella and forget about the rain. Besides the lush green beauty of the
many parks and of the surrounding countryside would not be was it not for the
high precipitation.
As in most northern climes the coldest months are January and February with
average daily temperatures of four to seven degrees Celsius. The highest temperatures
occur in July and August and these range from 14 to 16 degrees Celsius. May
and June are the sunniest months and average from five to seven hours of sunshine
per day.
TRANSPORTATION
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Dublin
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Ireland's national airline Aer
Lingus has always been an innovator in airline travel - especially for
such a small country. Dublin is linked with direct flights to the USA
and Europe; visitors arriving from other destinations have to travel via
the USA or the UK. Domestic
flights also link Dublin with airports at Cork,
Shannon,
Galway,
Kerry
County in Killarney,
Knock,
Donegal
and Sligo.
To reach the city centre from Dublin
Airport,
express buses and taxis
are available.
There are very busy ferry
ports with links to England and Wales
in Dublin itself and at nearby Dun
Laoghaire. Dublin is also the centre of Ireland's rail
network, and an extensive system of long distance motorcoaches
radiate from here to all over the country.
Local transportation is excellent. Dublinbus
provides very adequate and widespread service throughout the city and its surrounding
communities. Information on how to get where is easy to obtain. Taxis are also
used extensively. Dublin's streets are so congested that driving a private vehicle
is best avoided by anyone not familiar with the city.
FEATURED ATTRACTIONS
Literature has always been a major factor in Irish culture. Centuries ago monks
taught the common people to write, and this literacy was seen as a threat when
the English invaded. So education of the masses was certainly not encouraged.
Perhaps because of this repression the Irish have always put so much emphasis
on the spoken and written word. The Book
of Kells is displayed at Trinity
College - Ireland's most eminent university founded in 1592 by Queen
Elizabeth I. The manuscript was likely written by monks on the Scottish island
of Iona in around 800AD. It consists of the text of the four gospels of the
New Testament and written in Latin. What makes the Book of Kells especially
worth seeing though are the splendid illustrations that are inserted throughout
the text. The intricate detail is amazing. The colours are so intense that they
defy description.
In 806 the book was transferred to the monastry at Kells
in County Meath, Ireland. The monks of Iona retreated here to avoid the onslaught
of Viking invaders. It remained at Kells until 1654 when Bishop Henry Jones
removed it to Dublin for safekeeping and it has remained there ever since.
The book was originally bound in a metal cumdagh, which is a cover for sacred
books. This was stolen, but whoever did this was not interested in the whole
manuscript. Regrettably about 30 pages from the beginning and end of the manuscript
have also disappeared. In 1954 Trinity rebound the folio in four volumes. Two
of the calfskin books are on display at once, one to show illustrations the
other to show text. The pages are turned on a regular basis.
The Book of Kells has evolved into a great symbol of Irish national identity.
For a nation so proud of its literary heritage, the manuscript is a very appropriate
representation of this. The book is on display in the Old Library at Trinity.
The whole campus is well worth a visit and in the summer months walking tours
are available that include admission to see the book.
The National
Gallery houses a splendid collection of art. As well as the fine Irish
collection there is a good selection from every major European school of art.
It is located on the very attractive St.
Stephen's Green, a lovely park surrounded by some of Dublin's finest
Georgian delights, so the gallery's environs are in themselves worth experiencing.
Local artists pedal their artworks using the wrought iron railings of the green
to prop up their paintings for display. Dublin's National Gallery is divided
into three wings. A good half-day would be needed to see everything well; however,
for those with less time a few hours would still be well worth the visit.
The best feature of the National Gallery is the intimacy it offers. It is quiet
compared to many other major European art museums. One is able to get up really
close to the art works and spend time studying them and taking in their beauty.
The Dublin gallery has works of many greats including Goya, El Greco, Picasso,
Turner, Reynolds, Gainsborough, Titian, Caravaggio and Rembrandt. The quiet
atmosphere of the National Gallery enhances the enjoyment and appreciation of
their work.
Dublin's Viking heritage is fascinating and there is a tour that focuses on
this. It makes a refreshing change from the usual menu of things Celtic. The
tour is called the Viking
Splash Tour and consists of a land and water tour onboard an amphibious
vehicle of World War II vintage known as a 'Duck.' The tour takes in a comprehensive
overview of central Dublin and there is an emphasis on all the elements of the
Vikings' contribution to the city. The informative staff is dressed in full
Viking regalia. The culmination of the tour is when the 'Duck' takes a splash
into the Grand Canal. This tour is very novel and sure to be a hit with everyone,
especially families. It certainly provides a great example of living history
to youngsters.
Ireland's tragic past and history of injustice is well documented. Any visit
to Ireland should take into account, for at least a small part, this aspect
of Irish life. For the injustice and pain of repression has also stimulated
the creativity and passion of the people and the Irish character would not be
what it is without this negative but refining influence. One of the best ways
to get an oversight into this rather serious topic is to visit the very foreboding
Kilmainham
Jail. Stereotypical in external appearance, the jail has witnessed just
about the whole gamut of the Irish struggle for independence since it was constructed
at the end of the 18th Century.
Many of the leading figures of the various struggles, including Robert Emmet,
Charles Stewart Parnell and the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, were all
incarcerated here. The executions of 14 of the latter by the British were a
particularly bitter pill for the Irish to swallow and the jail became a symbol
of British oppression. Ironically it was also used by the then Irish government
to house prisoners from the bloody civil war of 1922 when Irish fought Irish.
There is a very good audiovisual presentation followed by a tour. An exhibition
on the history of the jail can also be viewed. Outside the ship Asgard,that
in 1914 ran the British blockade to deliver arms to Irish nationalists, is permanently
preserved.
Dublin is a busy and congested city, and even the most energetic will enjoy
a change of pace. Dublin is indeed fortunate to be surrounded by countryside
that is the antithesis of the hustle of the thriving city. Perhaps the most
beautiful place and just a relatively short drive away are the Wicklow Mountains.
County Wicklow is located just south of the capital. Within less than an hour
from the city centre it is possible to be driving amongst craggy desolate scenery
with a strong likelihood of encountering nobody else.
The mountains are fortunately easily accessible. The British built a road right
through them to enhance their defense of Dublin from the marauding bandits that
frequented the mountains and who would make forays down from their lair to antagonize
the English invaders. This is stereotypically beautiful Irish countryside. In
recent years it has been made famous by the popular BBC and PBS TV series Ballykissangel.
This was filmed in the village of Avoca
in the southern part of Wicklow. It is possible to take a tour here and see
the location of the TV show and also to visit the famous Avoca
Handweavers.
County Wicklow is also renowned for its beautiful gardens that thrive in the
mild moist climate. The best way of enjoying these is to take in one of the
stately homes that grace the Irish countryside, these are a further remnant
of the Anglo-Irish era and Ireland still has nobility linked to the British
aristocracy. Powerscourt
Estate near Enniskerry provides an excellent example of the art of landscape
gardening taken to the highest degree. The house still stands and as with most
stately homes, the exterior is impressive. Visitors can enter to visit the gift
shop and restaurant. Unfortunately the interior was damaged by fire in 1974
so the 20 hectares of gardens are definitely the reason for a visit here.
In Western County Wicklow, Russborough
House
is one of Ireland's finest stately homes. While Powerscourt certainly has
the most impressive gardens, the actual house here is well worth seeing and
rivals anything England has to offer. In the style of a Palladian villa, Russborough
was built in the mid 18th Century. Pillared columns, baroque styled gates, urns,
lions and gargoyles all contribute to an elaborate mansion, which nonetheless
is perfectly tasteful and yet again a remarkable piece of Ireland's magnificent
Georgian architectural heritage.
